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Wood Doll Carving
~ Overview ~

By Jean Lotz

It is hard to explain the romance of wood's color, texture and grain as felt by a wood carver

Let's start this discussion with the definition of a wooden doll as set by UFDC (United Federation of Doll Clubs): Because so many types of materials and fibers are used in the making of any typical single doll, UFDC decided that the best way to categorize dolls is to group them by the major material the head is made from, so therefore a wooden doll MUST have a wooden head. Even though a doll with a wooden body and a china head actually has more wood than it does china, it is still NOT a wooden doll. It is a china doll with a wooden body. This is a picky but important distinction especially for when dolls are placed into competition.

Inconsistency and uniqueness of raw materials is a major challenge in all forms of carving. As Pat Tyber notes below, each carving is a challenge because each piece of wood has unique qualities. No two pieces of wood are exactly the same. A carver may thrill with the ease of working with one piece of basswood, then curse the very next piece for being obstinate, grainy, or grabby.

Pat Tyber (Tyber Katz) wrote the following about making wood dolls:

"There are not very many people that get past first attempts at wooden dolls. I think it's because each one is a new challenge no matter how many you have done ... Peter loves working in wood and I of course love what he does and painting the dolls."

What does the term "carving" mean?

Carving is a very exciting process for those who like to sculpt in a totally negative / subtractive method. It is destructive and yet creative at the same time: the carver is cutting away at a substance while creating something more meaningful and beautiful.

Sadly, the term "carving" is being abused today by many people who have no idea what the term really means. Many people are using it as a synonym for the terms "modeling" or "sculpting". It is becoming more common today to hear statements such as, "I carved my doll out of polymer clay" which is totally wrong and shows this person's ignorance but yet this mis-use of the term is spreading!

The term "carving" is being abused today by many people who have no idea what the term really means.

Carving is a totally subtractive method of sculpting - you can not add more marble, wood, or ivory after you've lopped it off! Whereas, other methods of sculpting are both additive and negative. Yes, some sculptors may carve some details into clay, but then they can VERY easily add more material here and there as well as push and pull the material around and easily smooth it. The process I've just described is "modeling". Most modern doll materials are modeled and sculpted - they are not carved.

For example: In emulating the look of a cameo on porcelain, a sculptor may use the Pate Sur Pate method of brushing slip on top of clay, then carefully carve and model this new clay into shape. They would then add more slip and carve and model again. In contrast, a cameo carver working in stone must carefully carve away only what must be removed and desperately try to minimize any mistakes because he can NOT add more stone.

There is a constant "I'm one slip from a serious mistake or injury" tension while carving that some people can not deal with. It is this tension that makes carving so intense because it forces a carver to be careful at all times and to concentrate all energy and all thought to his work while sculpting.

Steps in Creating An Original Wooden Doll

Idea for a Doll

An artist first gets an idea to make a doll. They may have been inspired by a doll they can't afford, or a beautiful child they have seen or a dream. The artist plays with the idea in his/her head but evenually he/she will sketch out more concrete ideas on paper.

Draw the doll / Draft the doll

At this point the artist must decide on the doll's size and how it will be constructed. Will it be a solid wooden doll with some jointed parts or will it have a soft cloth body with a wooden head, hands and feet? At this time, perhaps the artist will also collect appropriate reference photos for the age of the subject. But then, as the drawing gets more detailed, and technicalities are figured out, then a pattern must be drafted.

A pattern is totally different from a sketch which is just used to structure an idea. The pattern is a tool from which the actual wooden doll will be made. The artist will draw the front view and side view in perfect alignment to each other. The pattern should have reference lines drawn from one view exactly correlating the same positon on the next view. These lines are an aid to placing the 2 pattern views on the wood in perfect registration to each other. In addition, this pattern should show the construction details of all joints.

Making the Doll

Once a pattern is drafted, then it needs to be carefully transferred to wood and the wood cut to the pattern's lines. At this point, the resultant wood cut-outs are called "blanks". The carver then starts shaping all of these wooden blanks into doll parts. First the carver rounds off each piece, shapes it, sands it, and then finally carves any delicate details.

All wood dust is a serious hazard! Use a dust mask at while sanding and power caving.

Wood must have a protective finish to stabilize it, so it is applied and then all of the doll's featured are painted. Dolls generally get another protective layer applied over the painted features.

The finished doll parts are assembled and is then outfitted with a wig (if the hair has not been carved) and clothes.

More details of the carving process are available in pages 2 and 3.

Wood Used In Wood Dolls

By Jean Lotz

In the past, the wood used by a carver was totally dictated by local availability of workable wood. A carver might have gone out into the woods to cut down some good carving or whittling wood or the carver might have reused an old broken bed post or an old broken broom handle.

A wooden doll MUST have a wooden head!

Now, carvers are only limited by Internet searches for the wood species they are curious about carving. New carving wood will be on the way to their door with just a few clicks and electronic payment. As a result, the list of wood used in wood doll making that follows is limited to those species that have been used in the recent past of for which I want to make some comment.

Wood Used In Wood Doll Making

  • ash - white ash - a very hard wood with oak like grain used to make Hitty dolls
  • ash - mountain ash (Rowen - European mountain ash) - a fruitwood and according to the book's story line, Hitty was carved from mountain ash by an old peddler. Rowen and mountain ash were once considered magically powerful so has been used to ward off evil spirits.
  • balsa - don't waste your time with this light weight craft wood
  • basswood - most carver's favorite wood and one of the easiest to start off with
  • birch - Judy Brown prefers this wood.
  • butternut - many net carvers swear by this wood and it should make an interesting, distinctive textured doll. Most carvers hand-carve it WET!
  • cedar - Alaskan wood doll artists often prefer this native wood, but all types of cedar can be toxic. Check out the toxic wood table from my safety page.
  • cherry - a reddish wood which darkens quickly with any exposure to light.
  • tupelo gum - very popular with duck carvers but I haven't seen too many dolls made with this wood.
  • holly - a very white, very hard, dense, smooth textured, difficult to find holly wood in big enough pieces for dolls
  • juelong - a wood used by dollmakers: Floyd Bell, The Becketts and Joanne Miglore. Joanne prefers to fill the open grain, then totally paint her dolls.
  • maple - a very hard to moderately hard wood. It is a favorite for those with carving duplicating machinery.
  • oak - a very hard grainy wood which is not used very often in wood doll carving but Naber Kids were resin copies of Harald Naber's original oak carvings. He used weathered oak because wanted very pronouced wood grain in his resin castings.
  • pear - a fruitwood with very even grain and rich color. It is strongly favored by miniaturists.
  • pine - northern white pine carves much better than southern sappy varieties and has been a long time favorite carving wood
  • walnut - a very dark wood used often to create African skin tones.
  • black willow - a wood preferred by Sherman Smith.
  • CAUTION: Some exotic woods are TOXIC or very irritating!
  • miscellaneous exotic carving materials: ebony, ivory (fossilized ivory is the only legal commercial true ivory), tagua nut (vegetable ivory), pecan (rock hard), ivorywood, magnolia (working qualities varies a lot within each tree and each species), myrtle, sassafras, fruit woods (apple, mayhaw, persimmon, pear, etc.), wood burls, misc. nuts.

Finishes on Wood Dolls

By Jean Lotz

I've seen all kinds of finishes on wood carvings. Never leave a wood doll without a protective finish. If you don't like the color of the wood with a finish (it will darken or yellow the wood), then plan on painting the wood or use a colored stain.

Q:

How do I prevent black walnut from becoming dark brown I like the dull gray of the unfinished wood?

A:

Sorry you can't! Walnut turns a rich darker color as soon as any protective finish is applied. Unprotected / unfinished wood will eventually rot or dry rot.

Test out different finishes on misc. wood species. I did a small set of shallow relief carvings from some waste wood and played with finishes on these.

Sample of some wood finishes used on dolls

  • Oil finishes: Tung oil, linseed oil, or Danish oil
  • wax
  • solvent based varnishes, lacquer, & polyurethane
  • water based paints, stains and varnishes
  • transparent stains applied under a clear finish
  • transparent or opaque paint directly on the wood
  • gesso under painting to hide all wood grain painted on top
  • heavy layer of gofun (ground oyster shell paste) for a traditional Japanese look
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